Sunday, August 7, 2011

Mexican Cuisine: Empanada

By Robert Nickel


Almost every culture in the world has its own version of the empanada. In Bolivia they are called saltenas, in Jamaica they are patties, in the Virgin Islands they are pates and in Nigeria they are simply meat pies. In each case the item is a stuffed pastry, but that is where all similarities end. Some nations use rice flour for the pastry, others use corn flour, but most use wheat flour. The varieties of stuffing used in empanadas around the world are probably as vast as those consumed each day. Alas, we are here to discuss the Mexican forms of empanadas.

The Spanish arrived in Mexico in 1492, along with Christopher Columbus. Over the next 400 years, the people living in what is now Mexico experienced colonization by the Spanish and several attempts by the French. The result was a periodic injection of cultural elements, some of which stuck. Although the French were not in Mexico for long, they did leave their mark on traditions in pastry. The structure of an empanada went from an undefined round of stuffed tortilla to a well-formed crescent of meat-filled pastry.

Adding further to the ambiguous origins of the empanada is the situation in the eastern state of Hidalgo. For a brief period immediately after the War of Independence, the economy in the area collapsed. The formerly successful mining industry had collapsed due to lack of infrastructure and funds. Eventually British mining companies were brought in to revive the industry. Hundreds of British miners were shipped into Hidalgo, along with all their customs and cuisine. Thus, in this region alone, it is generally thought empanadas have their origins in the Cornish pasties imported by miners from England. In fact, Hidalgo residents even call Mexican empanadas 'pastes'.

The empanada one would find in Mexico today can take on many forms. It can be found as either a breakfast or dessert item. Yuca, corn and wheat flour pastry may be used in varying popularity, depending on the region. Generally, the further north one goes, the larger the empanadas get and the more instances of flour tortillas. Central and southern regions of Mexico are more likely to use corn tortillas, and the empanadas will be slightly smaller. Sweet fillings include pumpkin, squash, cream and fruit. Savoury fillings can contain any form of meat, cheese and varying vegetables.

Perhaps we could say the varieties of empanadas around the country are an indication of the subtle, yet important cultural influences of each region. Some are large, some are small. Some are cream filled, others are veggie filled. Perhaps the empanada is a symbol of every change in the populated landscape of Mexico, from Aztec to modern day Americanization. Or it might just be a pastry.




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